|Type of Picture
||What you'll need
|People before and after eclipse
|People during eclipse
||Basic Camera on tripod
||(NO FLASH!) Longer exposures
will blur movements of people. Evening exposure setting, 1/60 and more second depending on background and eclipse angle. For strong contrast use the shorter end of the exposures.
||(NO FLASH!) Evening exposure
settings, tripod recommended, 1/125 to 1/30 second. Essentially this is a sunset colors picture. Practice by taking pictures of the horizon just after sunset or before sunrise.
||(NO FLASH!) Evening exposure settings,
tripod strongly recommended for longer exposures. Range is 1/125 to 1 second
exposure. Practice by taking pictures of the sky just after sunset or before sunrise.
|Planets and corona together
||Basic Camera on tripod
||(NO FLASH!) Longer exposures of one
or more seconds. Practice setup by taking picture of moon near a bright
star to get a feel for how your camera will respond to such a scene.
|All sky picture - showing everything from coronal
streamers to horizon
||Wide angle lens (fish eye) or reflector. Tripod
for camera rig.
||Using a slow ASA speed use several seconds to capture the depth
of colors and variable brightness. Sky will change continuously between 2nd
and 3rd contacts. Wide angle video (reflection ball?) is best when all automatic settings are turned off. Practice by taking night time pictures during a young or very old moon with a variable horizon brightness (just before sunrise or after sunset).
||Longer lens or telescope with proper solar filter.
||Filter density will dictate camera settings.
Practice by taking a picture of the full sun around noon and another set
an hour before sunset. That will be the range of brightness for
the partial phases.
|Projections of partial phases
||Telescope or binoculars shining on light colored
||Normal outdoor pictures. The more contrast and surrounding shadow the better. Unless you are using a telescope for the projection expect the partial eclipse images to be a bit fuzzy and out of focus. A telescope projection will reveal sunspots (if any).
||Telescope with solar filter.
||See partial phases above. Practice by taking pictures of sunspots with your telescope. You can use either a filter or a projection method to get very nice pictures.
|Pinhole camera effects
||Keep your eyes open! They appear everywhere! Normal exposure for outdoors. High contrast makes the little projections appear better.
||There are many kinds of strange shadows that
appear near 2nd and 3rd contact. Shadow bands are
the most difficult to photograph, let alone see in the first place. The
ethereal effect of the eclipse is very difficult to catch. When you look closer at the shadows you will notice one side will have a sharp focus while the other side will appear fuzzy.
||Longer lens/ telescope and camera
The diamond ring effect results from a small point of photosphere shining through a valley at the edge of the moon while you can still see the corona. A beautiful diamond ring image can be obtained using the same settings as for the inner or mid corona. The key is the timing.
2nd contact is the most difficult. You must remove your filter, refocus, and then shoot. Be careful not to look too early because that could ruin the rest of the eclipse for you.
3rd contact occurs just a few seconds after the bright red chromosphere appears. You will see a tiny point of white amidst the red. At that point shart shooting images.
||Longer lens/ Telescope and camera
||As multiple points of photosphere shine through valleys along the edge of the moon you will see what was first described by Bailey as a ring of bright pearls. Very fast exposures (1/2000 to 1/1000) will reveal individual points of light. Even though only a tiny portion of the photosphere is visible, it is still very bright and dangerous to look at.
||Telescope and camera
||Immediately surrounding the photosphere is the bright red chromosphere seen using hyrdrogen alpha telescopes. The chromosphere details can be photographed using very fast exposures and a telescope/camera. The chromosphere appears just before 3rd contact and just after 2nd contact.
||Telescope and camera
||Prominent bright red spots to the naked eye these resolve into "dancing flames" with a zoom lens or telescope. Fast exposures (1/2000 to 1/1000) are all that are needed in most cases. They are the same brightness as the chromosphere.
||Longer lens and camera
||As exposure time increases, the prominences
will wash out and more and more of the corona will be visible. The inner corona will show strong details in the polar brushes and the base of streamers.
||Zoom lens and camera
||Mid range lens of 200mm to 400mm will serve
nicely for this purpose with exposures ranging from 1/2 second and upward.
||200mm lens and camera
||Exposures will range from 1/2 second on up.
||Video camera on tripod
||A uniform light colored area is needed for the best
effect. Good luck, it has to do with being at right angle at the right momemt. A fast
video system is needed to capture this effect.
||Longer lens and camera telescope.
||Long exposure, greatly overexpose corona and
prominences to get a picture of the earthshine on the moon.