Eclipse 2001: The Lion’s Mane
By Bill Kramer Eclipse-Chasers.Com

Introduction
African Eclipse Stamps
Eclipse Observations
Photographs
African Adventure

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EclipseSafaris.Com Group in Zambia

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Sometimes the location alone makes the trip to see a solar eclipse very exciting. That was definitely the case in June 2001 when we ventured into southern Africa to visit the countries of Zimbabwe and Zambia. Friends and acquaintances were shocked and amazed to learn that our entire family was planning this trip into the African countryside to chase three and a half minutes of totality. A trip that involved camping out in the bush as hotels and lodges were scarce along the centerline.

The eclipse of June 21st, 2001, occurring just a few hours after the solstice, traced a line starting in the western Atlantic Ocean off the coast of Brazil. The line swept across the Atlantic in an eastward direction and touched the continent of Africa on the coast of Angola. At maximum, off the coast of Africa, the eclipse lasted just under five minutes. Weather projections and difficulties involved in navigating that portion of the ocean doomed several attempts to get cruise ship companies into the line of totality. As the eclipse path struck land in Angola, the duration quickly shortened as it sped east. By the border of Zambia, the eclipse was under four minutes, and closing on three minutes as it entered Zimbabwe.

Our eclipse expedition was to originally go to Zimbabwe to view the eclipse but there were difficulties in making sure all participants would be completely safe during our visit. This part of world has seen many government styles come and go over the past several decades. As such one can never be 100% sure of anything and the decision was made to move the eclipse camp to Zambia just over six months before departure. There would be other difficulties, but the trade off was a longer duration of totality.

 "Solar Eclipse" in native languages of the region (as told to me by local speakers of these languages)
 

After spending several wonderful days in the Victoria Falls area of Zimbabwe, we made our way north into Zambia the day before the eclipse. Our location was about 70 kilometers north of the capital city Lusaka at the following coordinates as determined using two GPS units in the field.
 

The corona was bright, very round, with five primary streamers. One of the streamers was quite thick and several other observers reported it as being two streamers for a total of six. At second contact a very large prominence was seen near the location of the largest streamer. Through the telescope the prominence was detached from the sphere and floating in space. There were many other smaller bits of the chromosphere nearby as well indicating a large explosive release of energy had recently reached the surface at that location. Above the prominence the corona was bent like a flame with a faint greenish glow near the central portion going to a shimmering white like the streamers at the edge.

Several other large spike flares were visible near the poles, one that looked like a jet flame twisting as it rose from the surface. The corona was very bright and the eclipse sky was bright as a result. Jupiter was clearly seen along with the brighter stars of Orion. Mercury was not visible to the eye and I did not have time to look for it with binoculars. The corona streamers could be seen out to three solar diameters before they melted into the background.

Because of smoke caused by biomass burning in the area (it is the dry season), a thin haze was visible to the west. Overhead the clarity was fine but not the best (during the night, the Milky Way was seen clearly to about ten degrees above the horizon). As the shadow approached it was visible against the thin smoky haze. It was a giant curtain of darkness rushing at an incredible speed straight at us. The shadow pounced upon us and in seconds we were plunged into the darkness of the eclipse. A large prominence shown brightly at second contact with long streamers extending around a chaotic shaped corona. After third contact the shadow could be seen racing off to the south east like a giant cat that had captured the hearts of us all.

The circular and chaotic corona reminded me of a lion’s mane as it jumps up with a roar. The hairs all tossed about in long streams as it shakes it mighty head. The blood of its last kill glistening near the gaping mouth, this was the eclipse of the Lion’s Mane as he jumped over the continent of Africa.

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I used two cameras for this eclipse. One was mounted at the prime focus point of the Questar 3.5" telescope and the other was mounted piggyback on the telescope. Both cameras were Cannon Rebel 2000 SLRs with Fuji 400 ASA color slide film. The Questar prime focus is about 1400 mm with an aperture of 90 mm yielding an f/15 system. The piggyback camera was equipped with a 70 - 300 mm Zoom lens and no filter. It was used only for the totality phase while the Questar was used to capture partial images using a full aperture solar filter.

This eclipse is also the first one in which I saw digital images that were outstanding. Pete Berry submitted the following images to be shared.  He used a Sony DCR-TRV 900 3-CCD element camcorder attached to a 1000 mm LZOS Astro Rubinar (f/10) with a 32 mm eyepiece at afocal projection.  Pete then ran continuous footage adjusting the exposure settings during the whole process.  These images are selected as the "best of" and despite using a field mount not entirely suitable for the task, he achieved fantastic results.  Pete was sharing his images at the Lusaka (and then Harare) airports using his camera system.  They are excellent.  To see an image of Pete's set up, click here.

This is a general write up about our stay in southern Africa. By "we" I mean the group of fifty individuals called "Eclipse Safaris" led by the enigmatic Eric Brown. Eric had put together a one-week stay in Africa that contained all the elements needed for a successful and safe journey. A tip of the hat from the Eclipse-Chasers to Eric for a job well done!

The Journey Begins

Our starting point was in London for an all night flight directly to Victoria Falls where Eric met us at the airport with smiles and transportation ready. After a very quick run through customs and immigration and we were en route to the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge. Our transportation was in minibuses with trailers on the back for our luggage. While driving to the lodge we passed an elephant eating by the roadside and saw other deer like animals (Kudu?). The ground was browns and yellows with dark green vegetation spread about. Acacia, Baboab, and other trees covered the landscape with odd shapes and well protected leaves. The land was a river valley carved in ancient times from volcanic basalt. It was mostly rolling hills of grasslands and thin forests. But there was little evidence of mankind’s intrusion into this land. It had a primitive feel to it that was fantastic.

A group of singers met us at the lodge along with a quick check in. But we were too early for our rooms and most of us sat outside on a balcony overlooking a watering hole. In the distance the Zambezi River was visible along the rolling countryside. While landing we caught a glimpse of Victoria Falls and the large canyon beyond it. It was an impressive country. We had arrived in Africa. Small wonder romance writers of the past fell in love with this area. It was elegant and primitive all in a single breath. We were traveling in style to be sure. We relished the luxury and enjoyed the hospitality of a very appreciative people. That afternoon as the sun was setting elephants and other animals visited the water hole.

Our first day was spent getting adjusted to the hotel and many went to see the waterfall. That evening we went as a group to the Boma restaurant near the hotel for a sampling of local cuisine and entertainment. It was fantastic. The food was primarily game meats such as warthog, kudu, and crocodile cooked over open coals with spices. There was also a local favorite that many selected not to sample, which was a fried caterpillar. We also sampled the local beer. During diner there was dancing and singing. Everyone enjoyed the show and found something nice to say about the food as well. We were in good spirits. Our first day in Africa and the weather was looking terrific.

The next morning our group of fifty split up into two pre-designated groups. We were with the group going camping and on safari in the bush first. This was something we decided to do early in the game, as it was originally an option for us. It turned out to be a great plan. Our safari bound group then further split into two again with one half going canoeing and the other half going on a walking safari. The walking safari group then split again so that each party was only about six or seven people with an expert master guide. The pattern would be repeated again over the next few days with the groups reversed so that everyone had an opportunity to do both the canoe trip and the walking safari. It was great fun.

Walk and Canoe Safaris

The safari walk consisted of a short trek through the woods with many breaks. We examined the varied wild life of the region and learned a great deal about the local animals such the birds, elephants, buffalo, impala, lions, and baboons. The hike took us down the Zambezi valley from volcanic rock areas with scrubby vegetation to the lush sandy shores of the wide and fast moving river. We saw tracks of elephants left in the mud over a month ago that were 15 centimeters deep and about a 20 centimeters across. There were many other tracks, some fresh and some old as this was the dry season and the tracks tend to stay fresh looking for a long period of time. We saw the remains of a buffalo with a rack over a meter in breadth. The spine and other bones were spread over a 20 meter area and very dry. They sat in yellow grass that stood waist high.

The canoeing trip was a run down the Zambezi River in two man canoes using kayak paddles. The current was strong and there were crocodilesand hippos in the water to contend with as well. Hippos are territorial and would regard our lovely canoes as an intrusion hence they were to be avoided. The white water was simple to navigate and just a splash or two ended up in the canoes. Although we had hoped to see elephant drinking near the river’s edge we saw none. But we did see many baboons running along the shore along with hippos, crocodiles, and water bucks. The canoe trip included a picnic on an island in the middle of the river. Our expert guide was a master of the river and showed us a part of Africa that will always be cherished.

The combination of the river canoeing and walking safari provided a great taste of Africa in the wild. I enjoyed the company of Paul and Elliot, our expert guides in the wild. Thanks guys!

Camping

Camping is not for everyone. You either like it or you hate it. I have always loved camping and this was by far one of the most luxurious campsites I’ve ever stayed in. We didn’t have to set up anything, all the cooking was done for us, the food was great, and the drop toilets didn’t stink. Okay, I like camping and thought it was easy going. On the bad side, it was chilly at night. Temperatures were around 10 degrees Celsius (40 Fahrenheit) and along the riverbanks where we were camped it seemed cooler. The hippos moaned all through the night and the other animals crept by our tents as we slept. Some of our group did not enjoy those aspects of the African experience. The complaints were kept to a minimum though. The weather was beautiful and clear, the sun shown brightly during the day. Since most of the campers were tired after the day’s activities they managed to sleep through the difficulties. The prospects of returning to the hotel to freshen up kept the spirits high too.

Night Sky

For myself, the best part about the camping was the night time observing. The Milky Way stretched from horizon to horizon with detail evident at every step. Looking up into the Sagittarius region one could see we are part of a large galaxy with a clearly seen bulge and dust lanes. Like using a large telescope to peer into another galaxy edge on. It was breathtaking. The sky was so clear that Mars cast a shadow on the ground and then there were the deep sky objects. With our small telescopes and binoculars we looked at the rich star fields of Sagittarius through Carina stopping to gasp at the nebulas and globular clusters that pepper this area of the sky. (Image of central galaxy region taken in Ohio from CAS dark sky site, this is about what the sky appeared as to the naked eye.)

Back to the Lodge

After our two nights in the chilled tents we returned to the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge. The rooms seemed much nicer than before. And the warm showers, they were very welcomed by all of us as we were a bit shoddy from our two days in the bush. During the next two days we explored Victoria Falls. The local people were very friendly and excited about the upcoming eclipse. Due to the current world press, they have not seen much in the way of tourism until now. And now, all the rooms are booked and all the restaurants are full.

Victoria Falls

The falls are an amazing sight. They are considered to be one of the wonders of the natural world and do carry that title well. The falls are about one and a half kilometers wide with the fast moving Zambezi River feeding them. There are a couple of breaks along the wall for islands but they are small compared to the wide expanse of water tumbling over and dropping over a hundred meters into a canyon.

Viewing the falls involves walking into the park area after paying a small fee. A short walk from the entrance and you find yourself looking down the canyon over the expanse of the entire falls and the churning the river deep below. The canyon is under a hundred meters across and that is where the walkway takes you next. There is a tremendous amount of power pouring over these falls and into the depths below. A mist is constantly generated and with the clear sun to our backs a million rainbows were seen in the sprays down the canyon. Some were intensely bright.

As you stroll down the walkway you are rewarded with sudden showers of fresh water mist from the waterfall. Lush vegetation grows everywhere in this rain forest just a few meters away from dry grass and scrub brush like the rest of the terrain around. Flowers and bushes grow out of the rocky face of the water fall which can be viewed from the opposite edge of the canyon that stands at the same elevation as the river pouring over the edge. The sight is awesome hydraulic power.

At the end of the walk you see the first bend in the canyon formed by this mighty drop of water level. A whirlpool churns in the corner and a bridge for vehicles and trains spans the corner. The builders of the bridge wanted arriving passengers to feel a mist from the falls when they were arriving. This is the only intrusion of mankind into the vista. The majority of the falls are seen without any other signs of man. And to add some extra decadence to the scene you can bungi jump from the middle of the bridge into the river below. We watched in amazement as someone did this before our eyes. And then walked out to the bridge to take in the view from there (worth going through Zimbabwe immigration just for this purpose) and to inquire as to the cost. Sadly the establishment running the bungi jump was closing for the night when we visited and no one in our group was able to talk themselves into trying this crazy stunt.

The other half of our group joined us the day before the eclipse and we loaded into minibuses with trailers for our bags. We set out from Victoria Falls towards Lusaka on what we hoped would be a five hour drive on good roads through the Zambian countryside. Our caravan of six vehicles made good progress through the border and up the roads of Livingston (on the Zambian side of the falls). Then we headed out north through the bush. The land was dry and harsh in some areas with many trees and bushes in others. For the most part the land was flat with light rolling hills in the distance. The telephone lines were cut (the locals used them to create wire art that they sold to the tourists) and we passed numerous small collections of huts along the way. All the time the people waved welcoming us to Zambia for the eclipse. We made one stop after two hours of hard driving with speeds reaching 100 (kmh) and many slow downs for pot holes typical for a road constructed on sandy grounds.

We were not going to make it to the eclipse camp in time. Our original goal was to arrive just before sun down at six PM. Instead it was looking more like 8 PM or later at our present rate. Then we encountered the road work in progress. The sandy detour was a test for our drivers and the vehicles but we made it through and realized we were even more behind our time line. Now it was obvious we would be driving through Lusaka at night. At first this prospect did not seem too bad except that all the windows were barred closed and gangs seemed to be roaming the streets. Most waved with a friendly smile while others seemed to be openly disturbed by our obvious alien presence in they’re normal nightly vistas.

Our drive continued into the night and we could see many fires set in the hillsides. The Zambians do this to clear out the dry grass and prevent serious forest fires from spreading. They are controlled fires for the most part but they seemed to be spread sporadically through out the area. I was concerned about how this would affect the viewing of the eclipse and was relieved to see that there were fewer fires the further north we went out of the city area. Our eclipse camp was not far off the main highway (a two lane paved road) and was in the middle of a farm field owned by Ron Landless. Ron had worked with several companies including Carew Safaris (Geoffrey Carew) who we had subcontracted with to create an eclipse village consisting of several dozens of tents and a couple of large wedding tents. Food was catered for all and there was entertainment as well.  There were several groups in other distant farm fields set up around us.  It appears the Landless's were able to take full advantage of their fortuitous location and it was most generous of them to share it with so many strangers.  A small runway was situated just to the north of us and DC-3's were seen ferrying eclipse chasers to and from other places  In fact, one DC-3 buzzed our camp site just at 3rd contact (U3) but fortunately not between us and the diamond ring!  The Landless farm was perfect for viewing the eclipse.  Many thanks go to everyone that made us feel so welcome and comfortable.

That night Eric Brown and myself did a set of short lectures about eclipses and a night sky identification tour for the Southern Hemisphere. We looked at Carina, Crux (the Southern Cross), and Centaurus in detail by the warmth of the campfires. The seeing was not as good as the camp earlier in the week, but it was still pretty sensational. We all had fun talking about the stars and the eclipse that was coming in less than a day.

Eclipse Day!

The next morning Eric and I were the first awake (I don’t think he slept at all). The dawn was still and the sky blue. A rooster crowed regularly at the farm nearby and the air was crisp. It was going to be a great eclipse day. Eric stood by the fire looking to the East with his large binoculars. He was trying to spot the crescent moon. Isn’t it funny how eclipse chasers think alike? I was after a cup of coffee first, then the Moon. Venus was visible with ease and after several attempts, and a cup of coffee, we spotted a sliver in the east as the Sun crests the horizon. A thin line of light that did not move like a cloud in the atmosphere was only visible in the binoculars. It was the Moon just a few degrees off the Sun, moving rapidly towards each other. We congratulated each other as the sun breached the horizon in full glory. This was going to be a good eclipse.

The morning was spent with classes about eclipse photography and getting ready. Everyone was in good spirits since the weather was holding stable and all was in order for a great show. As the time of first contact came nearer people started to settle in to position and at 1:41 local time in the afternoon a little bite was taken from the Sun. The eclipse was underway and the weather was perfect. A band was playing at the wedding tent; people were in great cheer. See the description of the eclipse above for my observations of totality. Needless to say, the day was perfect for a solar eclipse.

After the eclipse we all gathered for group pictures and celebrations.  It was great fun and everyone enjoyed the experience.  Solar eclipses always seem to leave everyone smiling and that is simply wonderful.  The band played on for several more hours and then dinner was served.  We had come a long way to see something special.  That was done and now it was time to think about home again.

Departure and Farewell

We camped another night after the eclipse and left before dawn for an early flight from Lusaka to Harare. There was a great deal of congestion at the Lusaka (Ben and wife Anna) airport and our departures were greatly delayed. This caused us to miss out on the plans for the day in Harare and we ended up spending the day at the Harare airport instead. A late night flight then returned a very happy group of eclipse chasers back to London where we each went in different directions.

This was an adventure, but certainly not an arduous one. We sample the best of southern Africa with safaris on land and water, Victoria Falls, the friendly people of the region, the beautiful music, and a great eclipse. The first total solar eclipse of the Millennium, at Solstice, was a grand success.

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Written 6/29/01 by Bill Kramer

Many Thanks to the following individuals who contributed to this web site!

Bergvall, /Ben
Berry, Peter
Lovre, Carl
Packer, Mike
Roitman, Norton
Schindler, Wolfgang
Schnell, Mike
Shedrick, Don
Smith, Mark
Spero, Howie
Stiehl, Alan
Telepun, Gordon