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A Beautiful Day to be in Sidee
By Bill Kramer

Side (pronounced “see day”) is a resort city located along the Mediterranean coast of southern Turkey. Popular with German and Russian tourists during the summer months the town provided a perfect location for many eclipse chasers of all nations to view the Total Solar Eclipse of March 2006. Thousands of eclipse chasers gathered in the various resorts, hotels, ancient ruins, and beaches to view the total solar eclipse under near perfect sky conditions.

Our group of 80 led by the ever enigmatic Rick Brown swelled to over 100 in number for the day of the eclipse. The helicopter landing pad area of the Sunrise Queen Resort hotel had been reserved by Rick and his Turkish colleagues’ over a year in advance. Telescopes, cameras, binoculars, and other equipment filled the area as we waited for the magic to begin. More experienced eclipse chasers shared advice and tips with others as we anxiously watched every cloud on the horizon, checked the various equipment set ups over and over again, and enjoyed the comfortable environment provided by our Turkish hosts. It was a beautiful day in Side!

Other groups took up positions on the beach near the various hotels or near the beautiful pools and gardens of the resort complexes described by one member of our group as being like a cruise ship that does not move. All along the balconies other small gatherings of eclipse chasers could be seen. In the town of Side many gathered at the ancient Roman ruins near the temples for Apollo and Athena, and a live broadcast was made by the good folks at the San Francisco Exploratorium from inside the Roman Theater.

The weather could not have been better. Light clouds dotted the horizon and never really approached. The clear sky extended back into the Turkish countryside and over the mountains to our north. Although some were concerned about a few thin clouds drifting closer, they broke apart quickly as the air was very dry. A light breeze from the Mediterranean Sea along with a warm sun made everyone feel at ease.

As first contact approached I sat in front of my Questar telescope and watched. Right on schedule the first bit of the moon appeared against the sun and I yelled “First contact!” in chorus with several others who were lucky enough to be watching through small scopes. Within a few minutes the start of the eclipse could be seen by those with eclipse glasses. The eclipse was underway and the conditions were beautiful.

Some may desire a perfectly clear sky however clouds on the horizon actually add to the eclipse experience. Not only do they provide a tension and anxiety but they also show the colors of totality and highlight the 360 degree sunset one sees during totality. A small front of clouds could be seen to the west however they were very far away and would not interfere with the eclipse viewing.

The moon slowly crept across the surface of the sun and at long last engulfed the only sunspot grouping visible. The sun was at solar minimum. Most of the surface was clear of sunspots however the view through hydrogen alpha telescopes showed there to be some nice prominence activity all around the disk.

During this time I fiddled with a digital camera attached to the telescope. I had practiced the setup on the moon with great success however as often befalls eclipse chasers in the short time before totality the equipment was not cooperating. As the eclipse passed the mid way point between first and second contact alternative configurations were discussed and it was decided that our daughter Melissa (16) would operate the telescope with her SLR loaded with slide film. I must say that took some guts from all parties involved! Although she was well experienced with the camera she had never really used the telescope. But she was up to the task the results speak for themselves. This meant that I could actually observe the eclipse without a camera, something I had never done in my previous ten eclipse chases. And that was very special.

The temperature of late March along the Mediterranean Sea area of Turkey shifts quickly on sunny days. During the mid day the temperature will be in the 70F (20C) range. But as soon as the sun starts to set the temperature drops quickly about 10F (5C) and lower. The same was true for this eclipse. At first contact the temperature was comfortable in short sleeves but as second contact approached it was getting chilly and there was a light breeze. Unfortunately I do not have any temperature readings to share at this time. (If you were in Side and did record temperature differentials, please email me so that data can be shared with others.)

In the last ten minutes before totality events begin to happen with increasing rapidity. First Venus appeared behind some high level clouds and in what seemed like only seconds the shadow of the moon could be detected on the horizon. The darkness filled the horizon and the clouds started to change color as fellow eclipse chasers spotted shadow bands (my eyes were riveted upwards) racing across the ground. As the last bits of sunlight disappeared behind the sun a beautiful diamond ring appeared and a highly irregular corona appeared against the dark blue sky. Loud cheers and gasps of amazement formed a roaring welcome to the view.

It is very difficult to explain the feeling one has at this point in time. Most let out the emotion by cheering or screaming, I was simply stunned by the glory of it all. Long coronal streamers reached out along the equatorial region of the sun. The polar areas were capped by brilliant brushes that remind many of brush topped Roman helmets that once marched across the very grounds we were standing on. Twisted magnetic lines of pearly white reached out behind a black moon into space. Laser red prominences dotted the edge of the sun as the chromosphere receded out of view. A total solar eclipse is one of the most amazing things the eye can behold in the sky.

After the cheer at the beginning of the eclipse the noise level softened. One could hear others calling out to look at one feature or another while others simply giggled, laughed, or sighed at the beauty of it all. The mixture of languages (Turkish, English, French, German, and much more) created an ethereal effect for the ear as the solar eclipse put on a grand showing.

Coronal streamers extended beyond the field of view in the 10x30 binoculars I was using. One was severely bent by the magnetic fields of the sun in an almost unnatural way while another was based in a large looping structure. Numerous prominences dotted the edge of the sun.

This eclipse was only 3 minutes and 40 seconds long from our location. That time collapsed quickly (eclipses always seem like 15 seconds to me) and a large prominence appeared as if being slowly pulled out from behind the sun. Soon another appeared and then in rapid succession a series of them appeared just before the chromosphere began to emerge from behind the moon. Then the photosphere showed through a series of valleys creating a growing diamond ring that took your breath away. Several people raced to turn around and watch the shadow of the moon climb the mountains to our north. At first the mountains where enshrouded in darkness, invisible to the eye. All at once they were there and the shadow retreated as quickly as it had come over the horizon.

A loud cheer rose from all around. Relief as the sunlight returned coupled with the emotion of the moment. Another successful eclipse, my eleventh and too long until the next one. This was Denise’s seventh eclipse, Alexandria’s fourth, and Melissa’s third – we are a family of eclipse chasers!

Eternal thanks again and again to Mom and Dad for starting me down this path.